Friday, December 26, 2008

Bali Museums & Art Exhibitions

Ubud

  • Agung Rai Museum of Art
    Jalan Pengosekan, Peliatan, Ubud.
    Open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 6 p.m. except holidays.

  • Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA)
    Jalan Bima, Pangosekan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-974 228
    One of the most distinguished galeries in Bali, where you can see works of some Bali's celebrated names like Spies, Bonnet, Hofker and Affandi. They also hold high profile events such as national art competitions and rotating exhibitions.

  • Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum
    Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-975 502
    Dedicated to the life and work of famed Philippino artists Antonio Blanco, the space includes his original studio, gardens and family temple.

  • Bamboo Gallery
    Nyuhkuning, Pengosekan, Ubud.
    Open from Monday to Friday 8.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.

  • Blue Moon Gallery
    Jalan Tirta Tawar, Banjar Kutuh Kaja, Ubud.
    900 meters north of Ubud's main road, and Studio Blue Moon, Ubud main road at Jalan Sriwedari
    Open daily from 10 am to 5 pm, specializing in exhibitions featuring emerging contemporary artists.

  • Gaya Fusion of Senses
    Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-979 252
    High concept space featuring major exhibiton by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performace, installations and sculptures. A real center for the arts.

  • Komaneka Gallery:
    Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel. 0361-976 090
    A fine art gallery that focuses on young mainly local artists with higher education in the arts, who may have studios abroad.

  • Low Art Gallery
    Jalan Raya Ubud No. 8, Ubud. Tel 081 338 565962
    Recently opened gallery specializing in the kitsch and the retro. Includes substantial collection of old movie posters and all kinds of weird and wonderful art.

  • Neka Museum
    Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud.
    Open daily 8.00 to 5.00 p.m. except holidays.

  • Museum Puri Lukisan
    Jalan Raya Ubud, Ubud.
    Open daily 8.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. except holidays.

  • Rudana Museum
    Peliatan, Teges, Ubud. Tel. 0361-975 779
    Boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco.

  • Sika Contemporary Art Gallery
    Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-975 727
    Provides a venue for young creative artists, both local and itnernational. Holds regular temproary exhibitions and events.

  • Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women
    Jalan Sriwidari 2B, Ubud. Tel. 0361-975 485
    Seniwati supports and showcases women artists and also houses a shop where crafts can be bought, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery.

Bali Museums & Art Exhibitions

Denpasar

  • Bali Museum
    Jalan Letkol Wisnu, Denpasar
    Open daily from 8 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. except Mondays.
  • Danes Art Veranda
    Jalan Hayam Wuruk 159, Denpasar. Tel. 250 037
    Local and regional artists, rotating exhibitions.
  • Museum of Archeology
    Jalan Letkol Wisnu, Denpasar
    Open daily from 8 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. except Mondays.

  • Taman Budaya Cultural Center
    Jalan Nusa Indah, Denpasar.
    Open daily from 8 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. except holidays.

Kuta/Legian/Seminyak

  • Randelli Gallery
    Jalan Raya Seminyak, Seminyak.
    Contemporary mix of pop, figurative and abstact art by young established artists both international and local.

Sanur

  • Museum Le Mayeur
    Jalan Hang Tuah, Sanur
    Open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. except Fridays.

Jimbaran/Tanjung Benoa/Nusa Dua

  • Ganesha Gallery
    Four Seasons Hotel, Jimbaran. Tel. 0361-701 010
    Features local and international artists based in Indonesia often very high profile. Frequent happenings.

  • Jenggala Keramik Bali
    Jalan Uluwatu II, Jimbaran. Tel. 0361-703 311
    description here

Balinese Dances

Most Balinese dance performances are held in the evenings, however, you can also see some Barong Dance performances in the morning.

If you prefer to watch one of these Balinese dance performances in a hotel after a sumptuous dinner buffet, the OBEROI is recommended because of the beautiful beach front setting. For those who do not wish to have dinner here, there is a US$10/person fee to enjoy the dances; Classical Dance on Tuesdays and Ramayana Dance on Thursdays, starting from 8:30 p.m.

Bali Dance Festival offers daily dance performance during buffet at US$25 per person. The restaurant opens at 7:00pm for dinner and on 8:00pm the performance starts. For further information and booking, please call 703-060.

If you have rented a villa, you can contact our local Service Center at 703-060 to arrange a private Balinese dance performance in your garden at any time convenient for you. 40 to 60 dancers and musicians in beautiful costumes will perform the Balinese dances of your choice and be afterwards available to explain anything you might wish to know.

Barong Dance:
This Balinese dance is about a contest between the opposing forces of chaos and destruction ("Rangda") and order (the "Barong"). Performances in Suwung and Kesiman (suburbs of Denpasar), and in Batubulan daily from 9:00 or 9:30 a.m.; in Banjar Abasan, Singapadu, daily from 9:30 a.m., and at Puri Saren in Ubud, Friday from 6:30 p.m.

Legong Dance:
A highly stylized, extremely difficult dance performed by young girls. Choreographed to the finest details, and no improvisation allowed. Performances at the Peliatan Stage, Friday from 6:30 p.m., at Pura Dalem, Puri Peliatan, Saturday from 6:30 p.m., at Pura Peliatan in Ubud, Sunday from 7:30 p.m., and at Puri Saren, Ubud, Monday from 7:30 p.m.

Kecak Dance:
A ritual dance created in the early 1930's for the movie "Island of the Demons" by the German painter and intellectual Walter Spies who combined the chorus of the "Sanghyang" trance dance with a story from the "Ramayana" legend. Very impressive with its circular chorus of sometimes over 100 bare chested male singers. Performances are held at the Arts Center, Denpasar, daily from 6:30 p.m., and in Banjar Tegal, Ubud, Sunday from 6:00 p.m.

Fire Dance:
The Fire Dance is an exorcist dance against spirit possession. Girls in trance dance barefoot among glowing coals. Performances in Bona Kangin, Gianyar, Friday. Monday and Wednesday from 6:30 p.m. In Bonasari, Gianyar, Friday, Monday and Wednesday from 7:00 p.m., and in Batubulan, daily from 6:30 p.m.

Ramayana Dance:
There are occasional performances of this Balinese dance Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa. This cultural dinner show is available on Tuesdays from 8:00 p.m at Rp. 240,000 + 21% tax and service charges per person.

The Most Popular Bali Tours

Kintamani Volcano Tour:

The first stop is often in the village of Batubulan to watch a performance of the Barong and Kris Dance. Afterwards you visit the villages of Celuk (silver jewelry) and Mas (wood carving) to see Balinese artisans at work. Ubud, Bali's cultural center, has grown to a busy town with numerous Balinese art galleries and shops. A scenic drive over small roads overlooking beautiful rice terraces brings you to the mountain village of Kintamani (about 5,000 feet above the sea) which offers spectacular views of Lake Batur and the volcano. You can cross the crater lake below the still active Mount Batur and visit the "Bali Aga" village of Trunyan. Return through traditional villages with stops in Tampaksiring to visit the temple of Tirta Empul, and to visit the Elephant Cave "Goa Gajah", a hermitage from the 11th. century used by both Buddhists and Hindus.T


The "Mother Temple" and East Bali Tour:

Drive to Besakih through various villages visiting on the way a weaving factory, see the famous painted ceiling at the old "Palace of Justice" in Klungkung, and visit the school of painting in Kamasan. The "Mother Temple" in Besakih is Bali's most holy and Indonesia's biggest Hindu temple. It was build in the 11th. Century in an altitude of 1,000 meters (3,000 feet) on the slopes of Mount Agung. You pass picturesque rice terraces on the way to the walled "Bali Aga" village of Tenganan, and continue to Candi Dasa on the East coast. On the way back it's recommended to stop at the famous Bat Cave "Goa Lawah" with thousands of bats hanging from the walls.


Bedugul Tour:

After a stop in Sangeh to visit its holy forest inhabited by wild monkeys, drive up into the mountains to Lake Bratan (1,200 meters above sea level) and the picturesque water temple Ulun Danu. Visit the busy flower, fruit and spice market in Candikuning where most of Bali's vegetables come from. Drive back through small country roads, villages and rice fields, with a stop in an artisan village specializing in gold threaded textiles (Ikat) worn during important ceremonies.


North Bali Tour:

Drive the scenic road via Pupuan through the mountains to Bali's North coast. You'll enjoy beautiful views of picturesque rice terraces, and large plantations growing vanilla, chocolate, coffee, cloves, and even wine grapes. Near the village of Banjar is a popular hot spring where you can take a bath in the natural pond. After a lunch on the black beach in Lovina you pass the old capital of Singaraja on the way to Git Git, famous for its multi-tier water fall. Return over back roads to see the unspoiled Bali. (This tour can be combined with the visit to Bedugul.)


Monkey Forest & Tanah Lot Tour:

Visit the royal Taman Ayun temple in Mengwi (built in 1624), the holy monkey forest near Sangeh, and famous Tanah Lot. This picturesque Balinese temple was built in the 16th. Century on a huge rock 100 yards off Bali's West coast and is surrounded by the sea during high tides. Spectacular sight, however, spoiled by thousands of tourists visiting every day during sunset. To avoid these, enjoy the view from the lobby of the nearby Le Meridien Nirvana Resort.


Handicraft Villages & Ubud Tour:

Visit the artisan villages of Batubulan (stone carving), Celuk (silver & gold jewelry), Mas (wood carving), and Pengosekan (painting). Stop at the "Bali Art Market" in Sukawati to bargain for all kinds of handicrafts and textiles.
Already in the 1930s Ubud had been made famous around the world as Bali's cultural center by the German intellectual Walter Spies, the Dutch painter Rudolf Bonnet and other foreign artists who'd made it their home.
Today Ubud is a fast growing town with numerous art galleries and shops offering paintings, wood carvings, textiles, and all kinds of souvenirs. Don't miss the MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN in the center of Ubud, the NEKA MUSEUM in Campuhan, the NEKA GALLERY in Ubud, the AGUNG RAI GALLERY in Peliatan, and the AGUNG RAI MUSEUM in Pengosekan to see the difference between creative art and more commercial products. Problem is that when you see their "Permanent Collections" at many "Galleries" you've seen real art, and when you return to their show rooms you don't like any of the very commercial products any more.
The SENIWATI GALLERY - ART BY WOMEN, founded in 1991 by Mary Northmore (the very personable wife of famous painter Abdul Azis) to help Balinese women to be accepted as artists, is a place you should not miss whatever you do. The main purpose of this Bali art gallery is to expose the long understated brilliance of independent women artists resident in Bali, and to motivate, train, and encourage young Balinese girls with obvious creative gifts. Visit also the BLUE MOON STUDIO and GALLERY, founded in 1994 with an emphasis on exhibiting contemporary artists.
The LOTUS CAFE is perhaps the most popular meeting point in town and has become kind of an institution, and MURNI'S as well as the BRIDGE CAFE offer tasty snacks and full meals in very pleasant surroundings and at reasonable prices. For other interesting restaurants please visit Restaurants in Ubud. The various Balinese dance and Wayang Kulit performances (see below) in Ubud and in nearby villages are worth spending the early evening there.

Bali Flight Information

Don't look for "Bali" in airline time tables. It's listed as "Denpasar" (DPS) which is the name of the island's capital. However, from Bali's international Ngurah Rai Airport it takes you just 15 to 30 minutes by car to Kuta, Legian, Sanur and Nusa Dua, and in about 50 to 60 minutes you can be in Ubud.

Today there is an increasing number of direct flight connections between Bali and Adelaide, Amsterdam, Auckland, Bangkok, Brunei, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Frankfurt, Fukuoka, Guam, Honolulu, Kaohsiung, Kuala Lumpur, London, Los Angeles, Melbourne, Munich, Nagoya, Osaka, Paris, Perth, Rome, Seoul, Singapore, Sydney, Taipei, Tokyo, Vienna, and Zurich.

Visa Regulations

The government of Indonesia has changed its visa policy for foreign tourists effective February 1st., 2004.


Visiting Indonesia Without Any Visa

Entering Indonesia without any visa is possible now only for nationals of the following 11 countries and territories: Brunei Darussalam, Chile, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, Morocco, Peru, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam.

Citizens of the above countries will be issued on arrival a stay permit for 30 days free of charge upon presentation of a passport which is valid at least for another 6 months. This stay permit cannot be extended or converted into another type of visa.

VISA on ARRIVAL (VoA)

This facility is now available for nationals of the following countries: Algeria, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Bahrain, Belgium, Brazil, Bulgaria, Cambodia, Canada, Czech Republic, Denmark, Egypt, Estonia, Fiji, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Holland, Hungary, Iceland, India, Iran, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Laos, Latvia, Libya, Lichtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Maldives, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Norway, Oman, Panama, People's Republic of China, Poland, Portugal, Quatar, Romania, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Suriname, Switzerland, Sweden, Taiwan, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom and the United States of America.

Citizens of these countries will be able to apply for a VoA valid for either 7 or 30 days upon arrival by air in Bali, Jakarta and a few other international airports or by ship at a limited number of Indonesian sea ports. A 7-day visa costs US$10 and a 30-day visa costs US$25.

The VoA cannot be extended or converted into any other kind of visa. Also be aware that Immigration officials calculate the 30-day period as follows: your arrival day is counted as your first day, and you must leave the country on the 30th. day!


How to Obtain the "VISA on ARRIVAL" (VoA)

Travelers from the above countries must be in posession of a passport which is valid for at least 6 months from the date of arrival and the completed embarkation/disembarkation card they received from their airline. They must also be able to prove they have sufficient funds for their stay in Indonesia.

Arriving travelers with Visa-On-Arrival status have to go first to one of the 'VoA Counters' to pay the appropriate fee and have their passports stamped with the VoA before proceeding to the Immigration Clearance Desk. An official bank is part of the VoA service counters. Payment of visa fees can be made in all major currencies or by VISA or MASTERCARD.


Requirement and Types of Visa Before Arrival

Citizens of countries neither on the VoA nor Visa-Free lists are required to apply for a visa overseas before travelling to Indonesia. Nationals of ALL countries planning to stay for more than 30 days in Indonesia also have to apply for the appropriate visa (tourist, business, social-cultural, etc.) at an overseas Indonesian Consulate or Foreign Mission before departing for Indonesia. For details of various types of Visa, please visit the page Visa of the Republic of Indonesia.

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Places of Interest in Bali

Denpasar
The capital city of the Province of Bali, Denpasar houses government offices, banks, and many other offices. Yet it manages to retain its Balinese personality while its temples still mantain their presence and influence. Pura Jagatnatha, a temple dedicated to the Sang Hyang Widi (Supreme God), has been converted into a Musuem. The status of a turtle and two dragons in the temple signify the foundation of the world. The Pura's architecture resembles that of a Balinese palace. It houses a fine variety of early and modern art. Sanggraha Kriya Hasta is a government-supervised art center, home to a wide variety of handicraft and works of art. Werdi Budaya presents a yearly art festival between June and July, with performances, exhibitions, art contest, and other artistic activities.

Nusa Dua
Part of the Bukut Peninsula in southern Bali, Nusa Dua has some of the most beautiful and luxurious hotels on this planet, gracefully integrating the beauty of the white beaches and clear water into the landscape of the hotels. Ronald Reagan stayed here when he visited Bali. The beaches of Nusa Dua allow you to gently surf along the northern side of the peninsula. If you care for bigger waves, the southern part of the peninsula can give you a challenge.

Kuta Beach
Kuta Beach is a the surfer's paradise where any tourist need except quite place are comfortably available. Kuta will still alive by all the pubs and nightclubs until 4 AM. Amazingly, among those tourist hustle and bustle, a religious ritual rites and procession are not rare things to witness.

Jimbaran Beach
Jimbaran, about 5 minutes driving from the Ngurah Rai International Airport, is a village for fishermen. Here you can find many fresh seafood restaurants. Everybody has their favourite restaurant here but what they offer is relatively similar, it usually come with fried peanuts, five type of 'sambals', a basket of steam rice, Balinese vegetable of 'plecing', and sliced fruit for desert. Diners are given opportunity to choose their fish, shrimp, or crab from the aquarium in front of each restaurant. Once you find a good fresh fish with a good deal then go for it. If not then continue your quest.

Klungkung
The Javanese Hindu Kingdom in Bali, where Balinese royalty draws its blood line, sat in Klungkung. It is the oldest kingdom on the island, and its Raja the most exalted. The ceiling of Kertha Gosa (Royal Court of Justice), built in the 18th century, displays one of Bali's masterpieces. Much like Michelangelo's The Creation on the Sistine Chapel, the murals portray the punishment of hell and the rewards of heaven, elaborated in thousands of panels of wayang style. The floating pavillion, garden, and lotus ponds are a reminder of the former glory of this kingdom.

Bedugul
The mountain resort of Bedugul is well known for its golf course and Ulun Danu, a temple which seems to rise out of the lake to present itself beautifully. Boats, water skiing, and parasailing are among the many watersports available in this area.

Sanur
Palm-lined beach, curving from the Grand Bali Beach Hotel to the south and facing the Indian Ocean towards the east, Sanur is an excellent place to see the sun rise in the morning. I suspect this is where Nehru experienced Bali to utter "Bali is the morning of the world." Offshore reefs protect the beach agains the waves, and makes it popular for windsurfing, boating, and other watersports.

Sanur is only a short distance from Denpasar, with public transportation readily available. It is one of the first areas where one can find good hotels, restaurants, shops, and other tourist facilities.

Tampak Siring
Pura Tirta Empul is the temple of Tampak Siring, built around a sacred spring. The temple and its two bathing places have been used by the Balinese for over 1000 years for good health and prosperity; the spring water has curative powers. Regular purification ceremonies take place here. Additionally, the people of Tampak Siring produce artistic bone and ivory carvings.
Tanah Lot
One of Bali's most important sea temples, Tanah Lot temple is built atop a huge rock, surrounded by the sea. Build in the 16th century, Tanah Lot's rituals include paying of homage to the guardian spirits of the sea. Poisonous sea snakes found in the little caves at the base of the rocky island are believed to guard the temple from evil spirits and intruders.

Ubud
Ubud is the art center of Bali, which maybe a hard concept to understand, given the artistic nature of the entire living in Bali. But the Raja of Ubud, historically, strongly encouraged artistic development, especially in painting. Ubud's Museum "Puri Lukisan" houses a permanent collection of Balinese paintings, dating from the turn of the century. Dutchborn Hans Snel and American Atonio Blanco, among other internationally prominent artists, had both called Ubud their home. The Neka Museum is another excellent museum, with marvelous collections of traditional Balinese paintings by local artists as well as foreign artists who lived in Bali.

Ubud today expands to other arts. You should not be surprised to run into a foreigner who happens to be living in Ubud, meditating or soul searching for his next book or poetry collection. Most hotels in Ubud are small, homely hotels and homestays that will provide you with a room that faces the ricefields with bird sonatas togently wake you in the morning.

Uluwatu Temple
Uluwatu, means the head of the stone, is located in the edge of stone cliff in southern part of Bali. It will give an impressive picturesque view especially on the sunset time. The three courtyards are surrounded by hard weathered white coral. The guardian gate in the middle courtyard has similar appearance of East Javanese temple architecture. The sacred resident monkeys are smart enough to steel your belonging even from your pocket, so beware.

How To Access Bali

Flights
Bali can easily be reached by air and now there are eleven International Airlines running scheduled direct flights from Europe, America, Australia, and most Asian Countries to Ngurah Rai Airport. Destination to Bali will be Denpasar (DPS) instead of Bali. Domestic flights are also available to and from major cities within Indonesia.

Sea
Regular passenger ferries from Java and Lombok.
International Cruise ship anchored in Benoa--south of Denpasar--and for larger and luxury cruiseship used to stop of at PadangBai.

Overland
Overland trip to Bali can be done by car from Java. Regular ferry service connecting Gilimanuk and Java for 24 hours.

Kuta Sweats Sex 5

By Denise Dowling

"From Heri, I get a lot of happiness, love and affection", Jean says. "I was married very young, at 17, and my ex-husband wasn't a demonstrative person. He was very busy with work and I felt like something was missing. With Heri, I'm finding I can express myself more freely. For the first time in my life, I'm independent. Heri has taught me to like myself for who I am and not what I look like. Sometimes I feel a bit insecure, like, 'Why should a young, handsome man be interested in me when there are so many nice-looking young girls around?' Heri says it's because he loves me. He knows I haven't got a lot of money", she adds. "I know about the Kuta Cowboys, but Heri has proven he's not like that. But can you ever really know how they feel? They think that because they say they love you, that's enough. Heri is so quiet and his English is limited. Heri said, 'I've got nothing to give you.' I told him that I may buy his cigarettes and food and put a roof over his head, but he doesn't realize how much he's given me. Before, I felt unattractive...I felt fat", she says, pinching the skin melting from her arms. "With Heri, I feel young. He makes me feel alive."

POSTSCRIPT: A lot of people in Bali and the States asked what I think of these relationships, and I'm still sorting through that rubble. Before I started interviewing, I thought it was about time for some role-reversal. Why shouldn't older women have sexy young boy-toys?

But with these relationships, there was a dump of emotions involved. The women heard what they wanted to hear....and the gigolos can say "I love you" in seven languages. When a man goes to a prostitute, it's a quick exchange of cash and bodily fluids. Why do women think they have to play Mother Earth? Why do they feel compelled to justify the relationship with that noble notion of love? Who cares if he loves you if the attention makes you feel attractive? Who cares if he loves you if the sex rocks? I still believe the women have nothing to be ashamed of, as long as they recognize the situation for the walking, quacking duck that it is! (1996, Urban Desires)

Kuta Sweats Sex 4

By Denise Dowling

"When Sally leaves, it will be hard not to see other women because I'm a man", Matt says. "I want to marry Sally. I think this is forever, because I get everything I want now."

"Right now I'm thinking, 'What have I done?' " Sally says, lighting a Marlboro.

"I've lost my marriage, my kids and my house because of Matt. My oldest daughter says, 'I don't know what you see in him, he's just a parasite.' I try to talk to Matt about it, but he doesn't want to listen, he doesn't understand." There's definitely something there," she's quick to add. "I mean, I'm in love. It's been exciting and adventurous. But my life in Australia is so different and spending all this money is totally out of character for me. It would have been more economical to have met an Australian guy!"

Sally sighs and drags on her cigarette when asked what she gets from the relationship. "Well, I hold the purse strings, and maybe I'm a person who likes control. Sometimes I feel like I'm his mother. Matt says to me, 'You're my guardian angel, you saved me.' That makes me feel good. You know, in retrospect, I would have been quite happy to be by myself", she adds. "But then I met Matt... and it just sort of happened..." She trails off, like she wishes it wasn't too late to return Matt and get her money back.

Jean is a 49-year-old ex-farmer's wife from Western Australia who's been living with her 25-year-old boyfriend Heri for four months. She and Heri are like teenagers, giggling and arm-wrestling with each other. While we talk, she flips through photos of herself and Heri partying, and shots of Heri grinning impishly after Jean dressed him as a girl.

Heri proposed to Jean three weeks into the relationship, but Jean said no. "I want to marry Jean and live in Australia because I can work there", Heri explains in stilted English. "If I stay here and marry an Indonesian girl, I think I have less of a future."

Jean doesn't want to rush into anything, nor does she want Heri to feel he has to make a commitment, because she can't give him children.

Kuta Sweats Sex 3

By Denise Dowling

Not every woman goes to Bali to shop for a souvenir boyfriend, but one usually winds up in her suitcase. Sally is a married 36-year-old nurse from Queensland who brought her teenage daughter to Bali as a graduation present. She and the daughter were at a local disco one night when the singer came over and sat with them after a set. She thought the 26-year-old musician was after her daughter until he invited her to his room that night.

"When I met Matt, it was the best sex I'd ever had," Sally says. "That part of my marriage had just died and I thought, maybe this is all I need - an overdose of sex! My husband and I had had problems and I guess at the time I didn't feel very good about myself. I wanted to feel better by doing something for someone else. And I guess there was the thrill of being with a younger guy, she continues. "If someone offers you a new car or a secondhand one, which would you choose? Especially if the secondhand one is falling apart?"

She really wants to know what I think, so I ask what kind of mileage the used one gets. I don't tell her this, but I'd probably take the secondhand car because I'm not into that shiny, prancing kind of new vehicle. Which is exactly what her boyfriend is, and it only takes one flick of his mane to see.

When Sally returned to Australia after meeting Matt, she assumed it was a resort romance with an expiration date attached. But when she called Matt from overseas, she was "charmed by his smooth talk." She sent him money for airfare to visit, not sure if the funds would be used for a ticket. As he stepped off the plane, Matt didn't recognize Sally because he was so strung out on heroin.

She had no idea Matt was a junkie. So Sally did what any nurse in love would; she straightened her Florence Nightingale cap and weaned him off the drug.

Sally estimates she's spent nearly $7,000 on the relationship since meeting Matt six months ago. She paid for the ticket to Australia, an apartment, food, bought him an expensive guitar and clothes, and paid for them to fly back to Bali and go to Java to visit his family. Now she's flat-broke and returning to Australia in a week. But Matt really, really needs a motorbike and does Sally think she can put it on her credit card before she goes? Pretty please?

Kuta Sweats Sex 2

By Denise Dowling

"I like the older women because they have more money", says a 21-year-old gigolo who calls himself Montana.

"We say, 'No money, no honey.'"

The young ones just want to party. The old ones are nice, they take care of me and give me massages. I not care if her body's old. We say, 'A face like Italy, a body like Toyota.' I tell the woman she's the only one, because otherwise it sounds cheap." Montana pulls out a wallet thick with snapshots of the only one from Sweden, the only one from Australia and the only one from France.

The cowboys say falling in love is a hazard of the profession, but through on-the-job training, they've learned to avoid that trap. "I don't give love anymore because I was hurt by one girl who said she was coming back and never did," explains 24-year-old Made. "If the woman says 'I love you,' I say 'Me, too.' I lie because I care."

Made is courting four women scattered around Europe in hopes that he'll win a trip there. After they return home, many women wire money that the cowboys use for rent and clothes, and some pay for a flight so he can visit. If a boy is really good, Santa gives him a marriage license, a one-way ticket off the island. That's what the boys really want - our paradise is their purgatory. Newspapers in Bali are cluttered with ads placed by university graduates seeking jobs, and former economics majors can be found hawking necklaces on the street.

Most of the Indonesians won't consider a local girlfriend. The cowboys claim they aren't attracted to Balinese women because "they're too naive and just want a rich boyfriend."

"Besides, I like the blonde hair, the blue eyes," Made adds, before chasing after a Japanese woman in a tiger-print bikini. The cowboys are blind to every color but green and any tourist resembles an ATM machine.